Preparing for Improvised Self Rock Rescue | Escarpment | Ontario
Improvised Self Rock Rescue
Course Itinerary:
9:00am: Meet the instructor at the Upper Parking Lot. (You may ask the park attendant for directions when you pay the $6.25 entrance fee at the gate.)
1. Basic Improvised Self Rescue -- for top rope, sport and trad climbers in single pitch terrain.
• Formal introductions, sign waivers, safety discussion and equipment check.
• Lesson 1 Environment: Leave no trace; climbing access (code of ethics).
• Lesson 2 Safety: Objective and subjective hazards.
• Lesson 3 On site safety: Current hazards and safety protocols.
• Lesson 4 Escaping belay for bottom belaying situations when using grigri or ATC-type belaying devices; taking over belay in these situations.
• Lesson 5 Escaping belay for top belaying situations when using grigri, ATC-type, ATC-Guide/Reverso or Munter.
• Lesson 6 Emergency rappel using locking or non-locking carabiners only.
• Lesson 7 Tandem rappel with a victim.
• Lesson 8 Lowering a climber with grigri, ATC-type devices and Munter, and, at light load with ATC-Guide/Reverso.
• Lesson 9 Ascending with a grigri or ATC-Guide/Reverso to pick up an injured (or stuck) climber mid-cliff.
• Lesson 10 Pulling up a climber with a grigri or ATC-Guide/Reverso: 1) assisted by the climber; 2) 3:1 pull.
• Lesson 11 Seconding climber ascends on rope over a difficult section of the route.
• Lesson 12 Sport or trad leader retreating mid-way safely by either lowering or rappelling.
• Lesson 13 Problem solving when top-roping or sport leading a route longer than the half-length of the rope.
• Lesson 14 Course review and debrief.
• Lesson 15 Life lessons discussion.
2. Advanced Improvised Self Rescue - for multi-pitch and alpine climbers.
• Formal introductions, sign waivers, safety discussion and equipment check.
• Lesson 1 Environment: Leave no trace; climbing access (code of ethics).
• Lesson 2 Safety review: Objective and subjective hazards; current hazards and safety protocols.
• Lesson 3 Making and using a Percell Prusik system.
• Lesson 4 Ascending with two friction hitches.
• Lesson 5 Safe release and lowering with ATC-Guide/Reverso when in heavy load mode.
• Lesson 6 Setting up 5:1 pulling system using: 1) grigri; 2) ATC-Guide/Reverso; 3) Bachmann hitch.
• Lesson 7 Using the "Baseline" approach to simplify the multiple combination of transitions between modes of belaying, lowering, raising and counter balance rappelling, while using any of the belaying devices: grigri, ATC-type, ATC-Guide/Reverso or Munter.
• Lesson 8 Counter balance rescue: 1) counter balance descend; 2) counter balance ascend; 3) counter balance rappel.
• Lesson 9 Passing the knot when joining two ropes to lower a victim.
• Lesson 10 Problem solving: rope gets stuck in multi-pitch rappel.
• Lesson 10 Making improvised chest harness and rope coil carrier.
• Lesson 11 Course review and debrief.
• Lesson 12 Life lessons discussion.
6:00pm: Meeting at the Upper Parking Lot to return equipment and say goodbye to each other.
Rattlesnake Point Facility Information:
There is a water tap and an outhouse near the Upper Parking Lot. The hike from the parking lot to the cliff is about 10 minutes. The cliff is 70 to 90 feet high.
Equipment:
Please bring your gear to the course, so you can practice with them and become comfortable and confident to use them. If you don't have the following equipment, please let us know after you receive confirmation of your registration from us. We will bring them for you to use free of charge.
- rock shoes
- harness
- helmet
- belay device: a Grigri and an ATC Guide or Reverso
- 4 locking biners and 4 non-locking biners
- climbing rope
- 2 5m-long-and-7mm-thick cordellettes.
- 1 0.5m-long-and-7mm-thick cordellete.
- 1 double length sling
Personal Preparation:
Weather Kit - Sun lotion, mosquito repellent, sun glasses, rain jacket in case it rains.
Clothing - loose fitting clothing made of synthetic materials for easy movement and quick dry; hiking/walking shoes or boots for walking on uneven ground. Put your jewelry and artificial finger/toe nails away. Pull your long hair back to avoid potential interference with rappelling and climbing.
Food & Water - Pack your lunch and water in your daypack.
FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions):
Q: Is your company insured?
A: Yes.
Q: Is the instructor certified?
A: Yes. Your lead instructor is certified by either American Mountain Guides Association or Association of Canadian Mountain Guides.