Preparing for Top Rope Anchor Setting Course | Rattlesnake Point
Gym to Crag: Top Rope Anchor Setting and Climbing
Course Itinerary:
9:00am:
Ontario clients will meet the instructor at the Upper Parking Lot, Rattlesnake Point Conservation Area. ( You may ask the park attendant for directions when you pay the $9.50 entrance fee at the gate.)
BC clients will meet the instructyor at the parking lot of Squamish Adventure Centre (38551 Loggers Lane.)
• Formal introductions, sign waivers, safety discussion and equipment check.
• Lesson 1: Environment: Leave no trace; climbing access (code of ethics).
• Lesson 2: Safety: Objective and subjective hazards.
• Lesson 3: Approaching cliff edge safely: use of rope or webbing/cord with or without grigri.
• Lesson 4: Introduction to top-rope anchor setting concept, setup and equipment.
• Lesson 5: Assessing anchors: bolts, trees and rock features.
• Lesson 6: Equipment selection: webbings, slings, cords, ropes, carabiners.
• Lesson 7: Tying and using knots for various applications. Demonstrations of tying the following knots can be found online: overhand knot, water knot, bowline knot, girth hitch, overhand slipknot, figure 8 knot, figure 8 on a bite, clove hitch, double fisherman's knot and prusik knot. You are recommended to practice these knots prior to coming to the course where your instructor will help you perfect your knots.
• Lesson 8: Using the EARNEST (Equalized, Angle-appropriate, Redundant, No Extension, Strong, Timely) principle to build a two-point anchor system.
• Lesson 9: Setting up top rope anchors with rope, webbing or cord.
• Lesson 10: Ground anchor consideration and setup at the bottom of the cliff (optional).
• Lesson 11: Belaying with grigri and ATC/Reverso/Tube -- using the P - B.U.S. technique.
• Lesson 12: Climbing communication protocol: commands and terminology.
• Lesson 13: Lowering with grigri and ATC/Reverso/Tube.
• Lesson 14: Climbing techniques: professional coaching and movement skills.
• Lesson 15: Gear management for carabiners, cords, webbings and, most importantly, ropes (stacking, throwing down, coiling and carrying).
• Lesson 16: Retrieving rope and anchor setting equipment.
• Lesson 17: Learning how to rappel.(optional)
• Lesson 18: Setting up a two-stage rappel system to reappel off the top rope anchor (optional).
• Lesson 19: Life lesson discussion (optional).
6:00pm: Meeting at the parking lot to return equipment and say goodbye to each other.
Rattlesnake Point Facility Information:
Address: 7200 Appleby Line, Milton, ON L9T 2Y1. GPS Coordinates: 43.471 -79.913
Driving Directions:-
From Hwy 401, take Hwy 25 south to Steeles Avenue, head west on Steeles to Appleby Line, drive south on Appleby Line for 3 km
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From Q.E.W, take Appleby Line north; 1 km north of Derry Road on top of the escarpment
There is a water tap and an outhouse near the Upper Parking Lot. The hike from the parking lot to the cliff is about 10 minutes. The cliff is 70 to 90 feet high.
Smoke Bluffs Park Facility Information:
Address: 38551 Loggers Ln, Squamish, British Columbia.
The park is about 200m from the above address, which is where the Squamish Adventure Centre located. There is washroom facilities in the centre which hosts Tourism Squamish. The hike from the parking lot to the nearest cliff is about 15 minutes. The cliff is 70 to 90 feet high.
Equipment:
You don't need to purchase any equipment specifically for this course. We provide everything. After the course you will know better to choose the equipment that works for you. You are welcome to bring whatever equipment you already have to the course, so your instructor may advise you on how to them safely and efficiently. Please let us know what equipment you will bring in the Comments section in the registration form. Thanks!
Personal Preparation:
Weather Kit - Sun lotion, mosquito repellent, sun glasses, rain jacket in case it rains.
Clothing - loose fitting clothing made of synthetic materials for easy movement and quick dry; old hiking/walking shoes or boots for tough wearing on rock. Put your jewelry and artificial finger/toe nails away. Pull your long hair back to avoid potential interference with rappelling and climbing.
Food & Water - Pack your lunch and water in your daypack.
FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions):
Q: Is your company insured?
A: Yes.
Q: Is the instructor certified?
A: Yes. Your lead instructor is certified by American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA), or Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) or, by Zen Climb through its vigorous certification process that includes practice teaching with real clients in addition to a series of training courses based on the standard practice of AMGA or ACMG.
Q: What are the benefits for me to bring my own gear to this course?
A: The instructor can help you to best use equipment. For example, if your rope has a mid-point mark, you can do things slightly differently than with a rope with no such mark. In one instance, the instructor helped a client to set up a top rope anchor with a single webbing, as that was the only thing the client had and intended to use to set up top rope climbs the next day!
Q: Will I get a list of equipment that I need to purchase to be self-sufficient in setting up top rope anchors?
A: Yes, the instructor will help each student to generate such a list that meets his/her needs.